Lead Rot Cleaning Pt.2 – episode 4

Third Episode Here

This is one of the “bad cases” of lead rot:


The legs and part of the weapon are gone, nothing to save… However cleaning up the remains will permit to restore or use the body for a conversion.

After cleaning up one of the horns needs to be strengthened and restored with some epoxy putty because the rot chewed through it, near its base.

The weapon can be restored by adding a blade or the head of an hammer, while the legs need some sculpting or getting a part from some other miniature.

I’m offering a miniatures cleaning and restoration service, in case you’re interested.

Fifth Episode here

 

Lead Rot Cleaning Pt.2 – episode 3

Second Episode Here

Here’s another miniature cleaned from lead rot:

Here also the damage was superficial. After the cleaning few areas still showed a bit of damage:

-Some superficial crackles on the sword’s blade. This can be left here, for a “old and rusty” look, or filled with a thin layer of liquid putty.

-Other light crackles on the robe, figure’s left side. After painting they will give the robe a tattered look, or they can also be filled with liquid putty.

-The base frontal section, the pointed part, has a deeper crackle that weakens it, I poured an half drop of cyanoacrylate and that strengthened it back.

I’m offering a miniatures cleaning and restoration service, in case you’re interested.

Fourth Episode Here

 

Lead Rot Cleaning Pt.2 – episode 2

First Episode Here

Here’s another mini that underwent the process of lead rot removal:


The results are good, there were only minor areas covered by rot, so no loss of details, those were the parts affected and the outcome:

-The back of the greaves shows some jagged edges, it will give them a more “used” look.

-There’s damage on the left leg that can be easily fixed with some epoxy putty where the lead rot chewed in.

-Unfortunately the sword was kept together by the oxide and the blade detached, you can see it on the ground, below the figure. It will be reattached or a substitute will be used.

-The left foot shows a deep crackle after the process, it was previously hidden by the oxidation layer. The more effective way to deal with this is probably to just pour some fluid cyanoacrylate  in it and let consolidate.

-The sheath on the right hip will require another small bit of epoxy to fill another fissure and make it smoother.

I’m offering a miniatures cleaning and restoration service, in case you’re interested.

Third Episode Here

Dwarves size and proportions

This will show some different dwarfs (or dwarves 😉 ) side-by-side, just as a quick reference and to highlight differences in proportions.

Quick scale note: A miniatures range scale is commonly defined by the height of an average sized human figure, usually from ground to eyes level (it should be 1.61 m). This at least is the method commonly used for wargaming minis. The following are dwarves, keep in mind that a dwarf height, compared to a human, can vary between different lines and manufacturers. Maybe I’ll do a more precise human-sized only figures comparison in the future (with a lot more manufacturers, also!).

A group picture:

The Minis Museum - Dwarves Proportions 00

Producers from left: Ral Partha (80s), Games Workshop/Citadel* (80s), Asgard (80s), Grenadier (80s), Marauder (90s), Wizards of the Coast (2000s), Rackham (2000s)

-On the left there are 2 Ral Partha figures from the 80s, proportions are more realistic than other sculpts, as always for Ral Partha minis. Strictly 25mm scale.

-Then an Asgard figure also from the 80s, proportions are more exaggerated (or Citadel-esque style), but not too much. I would say also a 25mm, I don’t have a lot of human-sized figures for reference and comparison with other manufacturers.

-Grenadier by Nick Lund, (I really like it) also from  the 80s, Dwarf Fantasy Warriors Battleset, heroic but realistic proportions. Scale is 25-28mm, this figure is hunched, scale of Grenadier’s ranges varies a bit between the early models and the Fantasy Warriors range, going more or less from 25 to 25/28mm).

-Marauder Miniatures from the early 90s, basically the same very nice exaggerated proportions as Citadel minis. Scale is the same as late Citadel minis, commonly referred to as 25-28mm.

-Wizards of the Coast, Dnd 3.5 mini, Tordek the Fighter, proportions similar to Grenadier, slightly larger scale (around 28mm).

-Rackham Confrontation, a Tir-Na-Bor standard bearer with no standard (sorry), proportions of dwarves for Rackham are unique and peculiar, scale is more toward the 32mm heroic.

That’s all for now, one more thing: the plastic bases are used to keep more or less the same feet level for all the figures, I forgot to reverse the base on the Asgard minis, so its eyes level should be more in line with Ral Partha’s.

*Big thanks to Mark, for correctly identifying this little guy!

Lead Rot Cleaning Pt.2 – episode 1

Finally I’ve cleaned some other figures of lead rot…

the results of course depend a lot on the oxidation depth. (If you missed the first article, explaining the process, it’s here)

However in most cases the affected miniature can easily restored after the electrolytic reduction process.

I will show the result in a series of videos that I’ll publish in a few episodes, let’s get to the first:

A nice figure, characterized face… I would say a early gnoll or a goblin, with hide armor and a club, later I’ll do some research to identify it (him)

The damage done by the oxidation to the overall miniature surfaces is minimal, after treatment the metal is compact and without fissures or crackles.

Only one part will need further intervention: the right leg. It appears the oxidation attacked the base of the legs, specifically the right one, practically chewing through. Luckily the figure’s club sustains it, so the excessive stress put on the left leg (also slightly damaged) didn’t break it.

A small amount of green stuff will complete the restoration, the figure will then be ready for priming (and painting!).

I’m offering a miniatures cleaning and restoration service, in case you’re interested.

Second Episode